Mediterranean Restaurant at the Swissotel Nai Lert Park in Bangkok

A Mediterranean restaurant in Bangkok is not aproperly at the table. The waiter here was very
common sight but there are a few and the best oneknowledgeable and quite accomplished, creating a
may be La Dolce Vita at Ma Maison. This restaurantCaesar whose dressing had just the right amount of
has an interesting pedigree, starting out in the early 90sgarlic, anchovy and mustard, at least for my tastes.
as a high-end French restaurant that for years wasA black truffle soup, which leans far into French
considered one of the top two in the city. Its presentterritory, was topped with a cannellini bean foam and a
incarnation draws on that heritage as well as a strongcouple of slices of truffle, giving it both a lightness and
Italian influence - hence the Italian name - to produce ayet a very rich flavor to top off the delicious essence
dining spot that serves a mix of cuisines with theof the soup. A spaghetti dish with Maine lobster and a
common thread being ingredients from Mediterraneantomato cream sauce was also successful, most likely
countries.because the acidity of the tomato sauce was
A survey of the menu reveals exactly that: rabbit andsoftened by the cream and didn't intrude upon the
truffles and gorgonzola cheese mix with olive oil,delicate flavor of the lobster as much as it might have
mussels and yellowtail tuna to offer diners an eclecticotherwise.
mix of dishes that is as varied as it is interesting toMy final dish was a veal loin topped with foie gras and,
people with a real passion for fine food. The dishesagain, some black truffles that displayed the true
themselves are mostly fusions of Italian and Frenchrichness of French cooking at its best. The thick,
dishes that are contemporary and innovative. Thereperfectly cooked loin was served on a bed of spinach
are also sections of risottos and pastas that arewith some other vegetables also. This dish
primarily Italian in nature.represented the true roots of the restaurant - a
On a recent trip I sampled four dishes that ran thepedigree of fine French cooking - that manages to
gamut of the different styles and ingredients presentedco-exist with the lighter fare on the menu that uses
here. From the appetizer menu I selected a CaesarMediterranean ingredients in different styles of cooking.
salad, even though there were many other interestingUniting these styles together into a consistent menu is
dishes in this section, primarily because I wanted to seenot an easy thing to do but La Dolce Vita at Ma
it made from scratch at the tableside. This isMaison seems to have accomplished it easily ad
something that few restaurants do anymore and itgracefully.
takes a good bit of training for a waiter to be able do it