| Owning a Breyer model horse is fun, but what's even | | | | Now, you will create the bridle path, adding realism that |
| more rewarding is creating your own customized | | | | transforms a model horse into a real horse, well not |
| versions! You can achieve some stunningly realistic | | | | quite real but a lot closer anyway. |
| and beautiful results by adding a mohair mane and tail, | | | | Take the embroidery scissors and cut a small amount |
| for instance. | | | | of mohair into very fine pieces. Apply a thin layer of |
| To start with, you will need to collect some materials. | | | | glue across the area you want the bridle path to be - |
| First, you will need a painted model horse (wooden or | | | | think about the shape you want it to be and how far |
| plastic) and a shank of mohair in coordinating color, at | | | | you want it to extend. Trace this shape with the glue. |
| least a foot long, perhaps two feet. It does not have to | | | | Carefully apply the tiny, finely cut pieces to the glue |
| be a Breyer horse because these same steps will | | | | and press them into the glue in a realistic way. |
| work with just about any brand of model horse. A glue | | | | Allow the mane to dry for at least an hour. You can |
| that works well is Aleene's Tacky Glue. You will want | | | | work on the tail while you are waiting. |
| both a pair of embroidery scissors and another small | | | | You'll start gluing at the end of the tail and work your |
| pair of scissors with pointed blades (a set designed for | | | | way up toward the horse's body. Measure the length |
| children is usually small enough). You will use round | | | | needed from the end of the tailbone to the ground (or |
| toothpicks to poke the hair into place. | | | | to the height you want the tail to end). Use the |
| At the end, the really fun part is the styling - you get to | | | | embroidery scissors to cut a piece of mohair slightly |
| comb and mousse the hair into place. For this, you will | | | | longer than this. |
| want to use alcohol-free mouse or spray gel (the kind | | | | Work glue into the cut end until saturated. Trim straight |
| with "extra hold"). Small brushes that work well for | | | | with regular scissors and apply more glue. Stick the |
| styling are a toothbrush, eyebrow brush, or a gun | | | | mohair around the end of the tailbone, so you make a |
| cleaning brush. | | | | layer of hair all the way around (not just gluing some |
| To prepare the model horse, you will need to drill a | | | | hair to the top or the side of the tailbone). |
| narrow trench down the neck (with some Breyer | | | | Repeat this process just a little higher up. Keep |
| models, you will need to trim off the hard mane which | | | | repeating with slightly shorter pieces until you reach the |
| is sticking out) and trim down the hard tail to the | | | | base of the tail. |
| proportionate size of a horse's tailbone. | | | | At the base of the tail, you will use three separate |
| Next, you will begin gluing in his mane. You will want to | | | | pieces. Measure and saturate with glue as before. |
| start at the withers and start with shortest pieces of | | | | Trim the middle piece into a V shape with the regular |
| mane. You'll want to cut each piece one inch wide. | | | | scissors. Dab on more glue and apply it to the top of |
| (This is where the embroidery scissors come into play.) | | | | the base of the tail. |
| Try to mash glue thoroughly into the ends of the piece | | | | Trim the other two pieces at a matching angle and |
| of mohair. Then trim straight across and hold this | | | | apply one to each side of the tailbone. The tail should |
| straight cut carefully (use the regular children's scissors, | | | | now be completely covered in hair. Press all the hair on |
| to keep from getting glue on your embroidery | | | | securely with the fingers one last time. Let dry for at |
| scissors). Dab glue along the edge and insert into the | | | | least an hour, perhaps overnight. |
| trench on the neck (remember, you're starting with this | | | | Once the glue is dry, you can carefully brush out the |
| short piece at the withers end). Use toothpicks to help | | | | mane and tail (be gentle about this, so as not to |
| push the hair in. | | | | dislodge your hard work). Trim any bits that are |
| Cut a little bit longer piece of mohair, still keeping it | | | | significantly too long. Wet mane and forelock with |
| about one inch wide. Repeat the process of trimming | | | | mouse and enjoy styling your new customized Breyer |
| and gluing and pushing it into the trench a little further | | | | horse! Follow up with the tail. Once the mousse has |
| up. Keep going until you get to the top of his neck, | | | | dried completely, trim any remaining excess hair and |
| where his bridle path would be. | | | | use a damp cloth or a tissue to carefully clean up any |
| Now you are ready to create his forelock. This will use | | | | excess mousse. |
| three separate pieces of mohair. Cut them longer than | | | | The results are stunning! This will take some practice, |
| you will want his forelock to be, using the embroidery | | | | so start with some used or broken models and just |
| scissors. Mash glue into one of the pieces, and trim it | | | | have some fun playing around. Once you have gained |
| off square with the regular scissors. Dab on a bit more | | | | some familiarity with the process, you'll be ready to |
| glue on the end of the cut. Stick this piece onto the | | | | work from a brand-new Breyer horse. I'm sure you will |
| forehead just in front of the ears. | | | | want to try this again and again to craft unique |
| Mash glue, trim, and dab on extra for the next two | | | | collectible pieces admired by model horse lovers. Soon |
| pieces, adding them just behind the ears so the ends | | | | your friends will be asking you to teach them how to |
| hang down and blend with the first piece. | | | | customize their model horses! |